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Bacalao
Salt Cod
Dry
salt cod or ‘Bacalao’ as it is known in Spain
is still eaten extensively in many European Mediterranean
countries, including Spain. The cod, usually from Iceland
or Norway is brought to northern Spanish shores where it
is salted and cured. In the past, the fish used to be air
cured hanging on wooden frames called fish flakes near the
sea but in modern times more efficient methods are used.
Generations
ago when there was no electricity, fridges or freezers,
salt curing was the only way to preserve fish (and other
meats) and even up until the mid 1970’s this practice
was still a necessity for many inland rural Spanish villages.
The Bacalao which resembled flat grey bats could be found
hanging on lines in small village shops which were often
just the front room of a local residents house. Even today
Bacalao is still sold this way although it is also available
in various other forms such as wrapped in muslin or vacuum
packed. You can also buy as well as the whole fish, pieces
of the whole fish and the 'lomo' which are the tender fleshy
fillets.
Salting
dehydrates the fish, reducing its weight and also increases
its nutritional value making it a valuable commodity, because
cod at the time was abundant and cheap it quickly became
embedded in Mediterranean food culture where it remains
to this day. Visit a Spanish fishmonger or ‘pescaderia’
any Tuesday or Friday and you are likely to see a whole
array of fresh fish including fresh cod, there will however
be a display of dried salted cod as well. Bacalao is still
as popular as it was generations ago whether in small Spanish
villages or fine modern restaurants worldwide. Perhaps the
popularity of Bacalao has remained because of its unique
uncompromising flavour or maybe because of the vast array
of exciting dishes which can be prepared using it, all of
them delicious.
The
trick when choosing a quality piece of Bacalao is to go
for the whole piece which has the skin and bones or get
a cut from the whole fish as it has the most intense flavour
and best texture. A good piece of Bacalao will be slightly
grey white in colour, never yellow and although it is dried
it should not be stiff but slightly pliable.
In
order to get the best out of salt cod it must be prepared
properly and that means first cleaning it in running water
and then placing it into a dish and covering it with water.
The Bacalao must be kept covered and left in a cold place
to soak for between 24 and 48 hours with water changes at
least three times a day. To test the degree of saltiness,
taste a little piece after about 24 hours and leave to soak
a little longer if necessary. Remember though never to add
salt any dish made with Bacalao until you taste it at the
end of cooking.
Bacalao
goes exceptionally well with a variety of ingredients but
especially fresh vine ripened tomatoes and dried red peppers.
It is an extremely versatile preserved fish and can be used
to make many different Spanish tapas dishes as well as main
meals, soups and stews. Below are some typical Spanish recipes
using bacalao.
- Bacalao
al ajo arriero - A recipe which remains unchanged
from times when mules were used in Spain to carry seafood
from the coasts. Prepared with lots of garlic and tomatoes,
this dish was served up in the ancient equivalent of truck
stops.
- Biscay
style Bacalao - A lovely filling spicy dish with a
beautiful deep red sauce of dried peppers traditionally
cooked in large earthenware dishes over open fires.
- Bacalao
al pil-pil - Similar to the tapas bar favourite gambas
al pil-pil. This chilli garlic cod dish is served still
sizzling in the cazuela with lots of fresh bread.
- Salt
cod fritters - A truly delightful dish reminiscent
of days gone by but extremely popular as a modern day
tapas dish.
One
other delicacy worth a mention here is ‘mojama’
or cured loin of tuna. The tuna loins are salted for two
days before the salt is removed and they are then left to
cure for two weeks. Mojama is always served in wafer thin
slices and served as tapas. Particularly popular in Madrid
where it served with a short beer and olives. Mojama can
be found in most good tapas bars.
©
Copyright 2011 Orce Serrano Hams - www.orceserranohams.com
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